Street Trends and High Fashion

Zoot Suits
A zoot suit is comprised of a long jacket with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders; and high-waisted trousers with wide legs and tight cuffs. These suits gained popularity during the late 1930s and the 1940s, and were considered luxury items due to the amount of material and tailoring required to make them. The U.S. War Production Board proclaimed that the suits wasted resources that should be allocated to the World War II efforts. So, wearing one became a form of declaring one's free will.
(Photo: American jazz singer Cab Calloway)

..........................................................

















John Galliano Spring 2000 RTW_________________________________John Galliano Spring 2002 RTW

Beatniks

The beat movement was a literary one that took place during the 1950s and early '60s. Beatniks were anti-materialistic and believed in the importance of bettering the inner self. The young men and women of the beat generation wore berets, leather jackets, black or striped turtlenecks and leotards, and slim-fitting pants. Their look was about simplicity.

(Photo: American poet Roland X)

.........................................................

Betsey Johnson Fall 2008 RTW______________________________Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2008 RTW

Teddy Boys

The Teddy Boy subculture started in London in the 1950s and soon became associated with American rock & roll. It was a youth market whose fashion was inspired by styles of the Edwardian period. The clothing consisted of long drape jackets, which sometimes had velvet trim collars; high-waisted trousers; and chunky wingtip shoes.

(Photo: American Teddy Boys in 1962)

..........................................................

Junya Watanabe Spring 2007 RTW_________________________________Christian Dior Fall 2004 RTW

Mod
The mod subculture got its start in London in the late 1950s with teenagers who were rejecting the dull British culture around them. These mods wanted things that were cool and exciting. They were very much into fashion, and they spent much of their money on stylish clothing. Male mods had a sophisticated look that included tailor-made suits, button-down shirts, and pointed leather shoes. The females either dressed androgynously in men's shirts and trousers with flat shoes or they pushed the envelope with miniskirts and short rectangular dresses, which got progressively shorter through the '60s.
(Photo: British model and 1960s fashion icon Twiggy)

.........................................................

Abaete Fall 2007 RTW_______________________________________Missoni Pre-Fall 2008

Hippie
The hippie movement began in the U.S. during the mid-60s. The fashion was a reflection of the subculture's independence and freedom from societal restrictions. The styles, which were considered unusual at the time, included bell-bottom pants, peasant blouses, vests, headbands, tie-dyed garments, ethnic motifs, and long, full skirts.
(Photo: American rock musician Jimi Hendrix)

..........................................................

Anna Sui Fall 2002 RTW____________________________________Balmain Spring 2008 RTW

Hip Hop
The hip hop culture originated in New York City in the 1970s and began to become popular in the 1980s. This is when established brands attached themselves to the emerging hip hop fashions, which were an expression of the attitudes of the hip hop culture. Early hip hop fashion included bomber jackets, track suits, Kangol hats, and heavy gold jewelry.
(Photo: American rap group Run DMC)

..........................................................

Y-3 Fall 2003 RTW__________________________________________Lacoste Fall 2006 RTW

Punk

The emergence of the punk subculture in the U.S., the United Kingdom, and Australia coincided with that of the punk rock music genre in the mid-1970s. Punk began as an intentional contrast to the disco and hippie subcultures already on the scene. It was marked by an overstated use of clothing and adornment. Popular punk fashion included motorcycle jackets, ripped apparel, drainpipe jeans, plaid pants and skirts, leather and vinyl, metal studs, and safety pins.

(Photo: English punk rock band The Clash)

.........................................................

Balmain Fall 2008 RTW_______________________________________Rag & Bone Spring 2009 RTW

Grunge

Grunge fashion was influenced by grunge music, which became popular around 1992. It coincided with a re-emergence of hippie fashion, and it was part of a similar counterculture as well. Grunge was truly the antithesis to the clean cut professional attire and the high styling of the '80s. The looks usually included big, baggy plaid shirts and loose, ripped, stonewashed jeans.
(Photo: American girls in grunge, 1990s)

.........................................................

Marc Jacobs Fall 2006 RTW__________________________________________Preen Fall 2008 RTW

...

Fashion Influences from Historical Artistic Styles

Renaissance

Christian Lacroix Fall 2006 Couture ________________________ Phi Spring 2007 RTW

The Renaissance was a European movement that began in Italy in the 14th century and continued through the 17th century. It is best known for its artistic developments and for artists such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo. Art from this period displayed an emphasis on humanism and realistic linear perspective. Fashion influenced by Renaissance art exhibits a harmony between colors and textures while enhancing features of the body (with fitted bodices, balloon sleeves, and/or wide necklines, for example).

Art Nouveau

Missoni Fall 2004 RTW ________________________ Prada Spring 2008 RTW

Art nouveau is a style of art that peaked around the turn of the 20th century. It was characterized by organic (often floral) motifs and fluid, curvilinear forms. It also drew inspiration from Japanese stylistic concepts. Fashion influenced by art nouveau makes use of flowing material and sinuous, curvaceous prints.

Genealogy of the Vest (Waistcoat)

The vest was first introduced in England in 1666 by King Charles II as a way to undercut the French fashion influence in his country. The diary of civil servant Samuel Pepys tells us "[t]he King hath yesterday, in Council, declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter. It will be a vest, I know not well how; but it is to teach the nobility thrift." This early vest was close fitting with a simple, straight cut. It had sleeves and was longer than the jacket worn over it.

French painter François Desportes wearing a blue vest in his self-portrait from 1699


By the time the 18th century came around, the vest had become more elaborate, making use of luxurious fabrics and fancy details.

William Bowdoin wearing a gold-trimmed vest in this 1748 portrait by American painter Robert Feke

The vest became sleeveless in the 1750s, and, by 1790, its length had shortened to the waistline.

Embroidered Waistcoat, ca. 1770s
(http://www.southcoasthistorical.org/)

In the 1820s, fashionable men started to wear vests as a way to enhance the figure. The vest, subsequently, became extremely tight at the waist. Some even featured boned stiffeners and lacing that could be pulled to achieve the desired shape. Shawl and notched collars became popular around this time as well.

Frederik Hansen Sødring wearing a brocade vest with a black velvet shawl collar in this 1832 portrait by Danish painter Christen Købke

The Victorian era was known for its richly decorative fabrics, and this was certainly evident in the waistcoats of the time.

Men's Victorian Waistcoat, ca. 1840-1860
(http://www.corsetsandcrinolines.com/)

Women's Fleur de Lys Waistcoat, ca. 1889-1891
(http://www.corsetsandcrinolines.com/)

For much of the 20th century, the vest was worn as part of the men's suit (though it was less popular during the war-time rationing of the 1930s and '40s).

1960s Three-Piece Suit

(http://www.ballyhoovintage.com/)

Today, the vest has become a popular fashion item for both men and women. And, while it can still be worn underneath a jacket, you will most likely see it making a statement of its own.

Women's Halter Vest by Tom K Nguyen, Spring 2009
(http://www.nordstrom.com/)

Historical Draped and Tailored Garments

Draped Garments

Himation
The himation was a cloak formed by a rectangular piece of linen or woolen fabric that could be draped in different ways. It was worn by the ancient Greeks usually over a chiton for a bit of warmth.

Image courtesy of http://www.liberograssi.it/

Sari
The sari is a women’s garment of South Asian origin (possibly dating back to 2800 BCE). It is made from a strip of woven fabric up to nine meters in length, and can be worn in several styles, the most common of which consists of wrapping one end around the waist and draping the other over the shoulder.

Photo courtesy of http://www.bridalwave.tv/

Kilt
The kilt is a knee-length skirt-like garment that has pleats in the rear and is most often made of a woolen fabric in a tartan pattern. It originated in the Scottish Highlands of the 16th century as the traditional dress for men and boys.

Tailored Garments

Doublet

The doublet was a fitted buttoned jacket worn by men in Western Europe from the Middle Ages through the middle of the 17th century. King Charles IX wears one with a short cape over it in this portrait painted by François Clouet in 1583.

Breeches
Breeches were a men’s garment with a separate covering for each leg that typically ended just below the knee and were closed at its open seams by buttons, drawstrings, or straps. They were worn from the late 16th century to the early 19th century. During the French Revolution, they were a symbol of nobility, as this image displays.

Gloves
Gloves are shaped garments worn to cover the hands. Though the exact date of their origin is unknown, gloves were worn for warmth and protection for many centuries before women began to use them as fashion adornment in the 13th century. These newer versions were worn to signify elegance and sophistication. This picture shows Audrey Hepburn wearing a pair in the film version of “My Fair Lady” in 1964.

Examples of the Functions of Dress

Environmental Protection
Fur is one of the earliest forms of clothing and has long been used as a means by which to keep warm. Despite animal welfare concerns, it is still considerably popular in colder countries due to its insulating properties.

Decoration
With just a few personal touches like fun accessories or some pops of color, an outfit can become completely different than what it was originally thought to be. It is these touches that truly make the outfit one's own.

Photo courtesy of http://www.painfullyhip.com/

Gender Differentiation
The wearing of high heels was once a symbol of nobility for both men and women. Today, however, high heels are typically worn by women almost exclusively for aesthetic reasons.

Group Membership
A significant part of who we are is defined by those who surround us. That is why it is important to be able to identify with a particular group, and certain garments and ways of dress can help do this. The uniforms worn by the Girl Scouts of the United States of America are an example.

Ceremonialism

Wedding ceremonies are among the most important and significant occasions that we will participate in. For this reason, many women spend a good deal of time searching for the perfect wedding dress. While there is a good chance that it will only be worn once, considerable meaning will be attached to it.

Photo courtesy of http://www.wedlog.org/

Sexual Enhancement
Corsets were originally made to be worn to shape the torso and make it more appealing. While their construction and look have changed over the years, corset tops are still worn to draw attention to certain parts of the body and to enhance sexual appeal.

Photo courtesy of http://www.fredericks.com/

What is a Source Book?

A source book is a collection of knowledge, ideas, inspiration, and creativity. In this particular source book, we will follow and document my journey as I explore various topics and perspectives relating to fashion and its history in 20th century arts.


The picture to the right is of Halle Berry wearing an Atelier Versace dress to the 2005 Oscars. I chose it because it displays a classic sophistication with a modern flare. I love how the dress shows off Halle’s confidence while still making her look soft and feminine. Fashion truly has the capability to convey many messages.

***