Genealogy of the Vest (Waistcoat)

The vest was first introduced in England in 1666 by King Charles II as a way to undercut the French fashion influence in his country. The diary of civil servant Samuel Pepys tells us "[t]he King hath yesterday, in Council, declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes which he will never alter. It will be a vest, I know not well how; but it is to teach the nobility thrift." This early vest was close fitting with a simple, straight cut. It had sleeves and was longer than the jacket worn over it.

French painter François Desportes wearing a blue vest in his self-portrait from 1699


By the time the 18th century came around, the vest had become more elaborate, making use of luxurious fabrics and fancy details.

William Bowdoin wearing a gold-trimmed vest in this 1748 portrait by American painter Robert Feke

The vest became sleeveless in the 1750s, and, by 1790, its length had shortened to the waistline.

Embroidered Waistcoat, ca. 1770s
(http://www.southcoasthistorical.org/)

In the 1820s, fashionable men started to wear vests as a way to enhance the figure. The vest, subsequently, became extremely tight at the waist. Some even featured boned stiffeners and lacing that could be pulled to achieve the desired shape. Shawl and notched collars became popular around this time as well.

Frederik Hansen Sødring wearing a brocade vest with a black velvet shawl collar in this 1832 portrait by Danish painter Christen Købke

The Victorian era was known for its richly decorative fabrics, and this was certainly evident in the waistcoats of the time.

Men's Victorian Waistcoat, ca. 1840-1860
(http://www.corsetsandcrinolines.com/)

Women's Fleur de Lys Waistcoat, ca. 1889-1891
(http://www.corsetsandcrinolines.com/)

For much of the 20th century, the vest was worn as part of the men's suit (though it was less popular during the war-time rationing of the 1930s and '40s).

1960s Three-Piece Suit

(http://www.ballyhoovintage.com/)

Today, the vest has become a popular fashion item for both men and women. And, while it can still be worn underneath a jacket, you will most likely see it making a statement of its own.

Women's Halter Vest by Tom K Nguyen, Spring 2009
(http://www.nordstrom.com/)